The Bad Road

Leaving Urumqi was not as straight forward as we were hoping, with a flat tire to fix and cycling in the wrong direction, it took us a bit of time to get out of the city. The day started off with a bewildering array of breakfast items as we pushed out bikes through one of the many morning markets, sampling the stuffed dumplings and fried breads seasoned to perfection.

As we rode away from the city we were looking for the G101. A couple of days earlier we had decided that the thin green line on our map would offer more adventure than the busy red lines denoting the main roads. When we finally found the 101, a shopkeeper implored us not to take the road as she called it “a bad road”. On hearing this news we both knew we would be riding the road west. As we travelled along perfect black top road the landscape quickly changed from flat brown desert like earth with low shrubs to brightly colored sandstone peaks and water etched river valleys. It seemed we could not make if far before pulling out our cameras to get another picture. As we ascended out of each river valley to gain the elevation of another highpoint or pass the landscape and sandstone seemed to add another hue of red, yellow, green or brown.

Finding suitable camp sites on the 101 was not a problem as much of the road was uninhabited but this did bring the unintended consequence of finding food or packing enough for several days. The road that started out paved quickly turned into a dirt road, at times black from the dust that would fall from the numerous passing trucks carrying coal. At times trucks would be descending upon us with huge billowing clouds of dust that we would soon be navigating through. As the one approached and entered this plume of dust only a faint outline of the rider in front could be seen as the brown and black haze enveloped us. After a day of riding we would look as though we had just stepped out of one of the many coal mines that dotted the surrounding brown landscape.

As the sun was beginning to set on the first day, we cycled up a steep hill to what we had thought was a village only to find a coal processing plant. Workers, some filling big bags full of coal chunks while others secured tarps over long trucks. When we asked about finding food the answer was a predictable “no, not here”. As we began heading back down the hill we stopped off at a ram-shackled brick building that made up several small rooms with two cows grazing in the blackened earth of coal dust.

We asked once again about food and this time the young workers, most of whom were already heating a bowl of laghman (hand stretched wheat noodles with vegetable and meat topping) invited us in, insisting that that they would not accept our money. Instead the young workers, with blackened faces and hands from a day spent working around coal, were interested in talking to us, finding out where we had come from and if we were married. Sometimes one can find the nicest people on the worst roads.

We went to bed that night, listening to the coal trucks slowly make their way around the tight corners of the mountain road.

Arriving to Urumqi

Kevin and I feel the need to get to Urumqi and begin cycling. Shorting our stay in Beijing and Urumqi means we will be on the road, almost a week ahead of schedule. Weighing our options between training from Beijing to Xi’an then on to Urumqi or flying directly we find a flight priced with an irresistible price.

Arriving to Urumqi, we again take the cheap route, getting a ride on the city bus that drops us off at a traffic circle in the city, leaving us standing on the side of the road, with boxes, once again. This time we favor out bodies, flag down a truck and spend the next two hours driving around with the jolly and patient driver, looking for a hostel that seems not to exist. With a since of utter deflation, we unloaded our still boxed bikes on a street corner. While Kevin heads off in search of the elusive hostel or any hotel for that matter, Chris stays with the bikes and watches the street sellers push their carts of dried apricots, dates, raisins and nuts along the road side.

What we finally learn is that the hostel we had been searching for, for the past 3 hours was just across the street.

We send the early afternoon hours at the hostel, assembling out bikes and packing out bags, amazed at how, what seemed to be a small assortment of gear barely fits into our five bags. Occasionally we have an audience of hostel goers, old men and finally a man who lives in Urumqi and is an English teacher.

The Great Wall

We apologize in advance for some of the technical issues that we are experiencing with several of these blog posts. Both China and Kazakhstan have not been as internet accessible countries as we were hoping.

It just would not be right visiting Beijing without seeing the Great Wall of China, an amazing sight looking across the horizon to see the wall snaking its way along and over sharp mountain ridges.

We are now also amazed to encounter the Great Firewall of China. Where we have been blocked from accessing our blog, Facebook and Picasa to post photos. Like all great cycling expeditions, we have finally found a way through.

Pushing our boxed bicycles out of the Beijing Airport and into the unfamiliar warmth and smogged skyline that has become part of the city’s signature. Our first attempt at finding transportation resulted in a cab driver who offered to take us the hostel for 480 Yuan (about $80). We finally found the public bus that would take us most of the way for 16 Yuan. What we didn’t realize was that the bus would drop us off on a median, in the middle of a busy express-way and we would spend the next hour laboriously carrying our boxed bikes on our shoulders, through a maze of side streets. Quickly out shoulders and forearms began to ache, and our heads pounded from the dehydration caused from flying. We only found out later that each box weighed a staggering 35 kilos. Being cheap has its price and we paid it with physical labor.

We made it most of the way to the hostel before giving up. I waited, as Kevin went ahead to find us a bicycle we could use to move out gear the last few minutes.

Exploring the hutongs (small village streets) is certainly nothing new for Kevin after having lived here for three years. His knowledge of the language and ability to navigate the bewildering maze that makes up Beijing’s city streets is invaluable.

Over the next few days in the city we rent bikes (complete with front baskets) and cruise the streets trying to not eat the same thing twice. On the day before our departure to Urumqi, we decide to visit the Great Wall which proves, once again, to be ripe with adventure.

Six days left before departure

With only six day left before our departure, we are both working hard to tie up the loose ends, review our gear choices and second guess our sanity.  

We have updated our Route page with a bit more description and will be posting photos of our gear/bikes very soon.  There will be more regular postings to as we get the final pieces sorted.

Over the next few months we hope to bring entertainment, enlightenment and inspire to you as we explore the amazing mountains that make up Central Asia. 

Thank You

We wanted to once again express our utmost appreciation for the support and eagerness our sponsors have shown for this expedition.  Without their help we could not have even begun a trip such as this.

Perhaps the best part of putting this trip together has been the time spent working with all of these local shops and dealers.   Our supporters may be large companies but there has always been a face local to Canmore behind them and that has made all the difference. 

Patagonia of Banff - Thank you for taking the time to let us try on those awesome clothes in the store and answer our questions.  We really appreciate your enthusiasm and immediate decision to support what we are setting out to achieve.  If you are in the area please stop by and say hello to Tim and the great staff.  Find out how to get to them here Patagonia of Banff

Icebreaker - Thank you for believing in us enough to offer such amazing clothing.  We both have always loved the clothing line and now to get the chance to ride in some is stellar gear.  Find out more about Icebreaker clothing here.

Finally and possibly the most important, Kevin and I would like to thank our parents.  From the very beginning our parents have been enthusiastic, supportive and generous in our endeavor to pursue this crazy dream of ours. 


There is no doubt we will be putting all of this clothing and gear to the test and can hardly wait.

Ride of My Life - The Story of the Bicycle

A wonderful story that the BBC produced following Robert Penn, the author of "It's All About the Bike - The Pursuit of Happiness on Two Wheels".  The six part series weaves a unique look back at the bicycle and simultaneously follows Mr. Penn as he travels the globe assembling his vision of a perfect bicycle. 

Have a look and see what you think.  Regardless of whether you agree with his mode of transport while trying to obtain his new bike parts it is nice to see the BBC providing such lengthy coverage.

Following Wool Back to the Source

We received a wonderful package the other day from one of our sponsors, Icebreaker which we were really stoked about.  Not only is their clothing well made but the fit and finish of the product is always spot on.

What I found so interesting was that Icebreaker, in their infinite wisdom, has come up with this idea of a baacode.  Each item comes with a special code that allows you, the new and proud owner, to trace the wool back to where it has come from.  This idea, as explained by Icebreaker - 

"With most of the things you buy, you're told little or nothing about how they're made. Icebreaker is different.

We have a deep commitment to animal welfare, the welfare of the people who work with us, and the environment. And we have nothing to hide.

Your unique Baacode will let you see the living conditions of the high country sheep that produced the merino fibre in your Icebreaker garment, meet the farmers who are custodians of this astonishing landscape, and follow every step of the supply chain. We're sure you'll find the experience as inspiring as we do. Enjoy your journey back to the source."

So, the socks that we received came from this farm station while our shirts came from a collective of farms.  What makes this idea so exciting is that you get to actually see (and sometimes watch a video) the farmers, the number of sheep, the size of the farm and satellite photos of the farm.  A stunningly brilliant and simple idea.